How can I get a 94 Ford Probe 2.0 liter (Mazda) 5 spd. to stop ticking? It sounds like it's going to blow up!

[Peachykitten]

Local area machine shop hottie here. Motor has 228,000 and ticked since 68,000 'bout 10 years ago. It's *really* bad now. I use 5W30 only, mostly high mi. formula. Put an oil additive (slick 50 ot the like) every 30-50,000. Tried the stop lifter tap crap (which doesn't work on anything I don't think! lol) All routine maintenance dun (oil, all tune up, incl. timing belts (3), clutch, etc.) since first bringin Ugly Betty home. Yes, she was Betty before the tele came along and she has just got uglier and uglier. She's still sweet with her walker exhaust and cold air induction. Always run 89 octane. I wanna run her till she poops and even then I plan on a rebuild (luv this motor - most bang for the buck in a go kart!) I know off the subject. PLEASE help me not be so embarrassed to drive my baby! What can I do to quiet collapsed lifter(s)?!?! btw - anyone know if fuel injectors go bad frequently on Mazda motors (yes, I know Betty is a Mazda, only reason I bought her!) Appreciate all answers

[crazyinkzoo]

you need a valve job

but with those miles just get the whole motor rebuilt

[Kolie]

it means its time to get a new car!! ford probe=CRAP

[teameplerverizonnet]

Use 20-50 if you can find it.

I plan on running my Miata's till I die.

So I already have an engine that I am rebuilding.

I am relaying this to you because you need to find an engine before this one dies. Either already rebuilt, or from a salvage yard. That way you pick the time to replace it (the engine) and save the tow bill.

If you are real brave, rebuild the one you take out.

Keep in mind, that it is cheaper to rebuild an engine before it blows.

[cnshinn]

Although you may need a value job or I'll head rebuild, here is something to try.



Your engine, head, valves, pistons, etc are probably heavily carboned-up or varnished.  Cleaning this crap out of the motor may make a big difference.



Go to a local Chrysler dealership and pick up a couple cans of Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner. It's dirt cheap and will really clean up carbon & varnish deposits.



Just follow the instructions on the label.  Get a friend to help you with this.  It can be difficult to keep the engine running while using the MCCC.



You spray it into the throttle body directly, while the engine is running. This will create A LOT of smoke so do it outdoors. Once the can is empty let the engine stop.  Let it sit overnight. The next day start the car and repeatedly rev it for a couple minutes and then take it for a long highway drive. Rev the engine hard every now and then while driving.



You can repeat this a week or so later for a second cleaning.



This will really clean up the engine and may reduce some of the ticking if carbon or varnish deposits are part of the cause.

[dvilly]

I got '88 626 2.2 turbo 5 speed with 245K on it. You got hydraulic lifters in there, replace them to stop valve knocking, or it will cause you to do valve job, but try to put 20-50 oil in it first, it might be just enough to take care of it.

[DanaS]

Try Valvoline Synethic Oil Treatment  as the add.

Valvoline Maxlife seems to quiet my B2000 lifters more than the rest.



I don't get better results with 15-40 or heavier oils as you have lifter tick that is more annoying than a danger. I'd do the head cleaning suggested and techron from Chevron as the 4 will carbonup as well as be sure the PCV system is clear as the carbon also can lift the head and cause cracks / head gasket repair. Fix the lifters by replacing the HLA when you need to do some other head maintenance.



Look for a used japan import engine as reasonable repair if the rest of the car is ok. Cheaper than a rebuild but keep your old motor rather than turn it in for a core deposit as  the head alone is worth more than the core deposit.